Feature: The Wonderful World of Hispanic Food

Whether you call them Hispanics or Latinos, Mexicans, Cubans, or Colombians, this vital and growing segment of the U.S. population has, in recent years, become the country’s largest ethnic demographic.

And they’re having a seismic effect on every aspect of the produce industry. From production and consumption to retail and restaurants, Hispanic preferences and flavors are flexing their economic and gustatory muscles.

What the Numbers Say

According to the most recent census data available in 2022, there were 63.7 million Hispanics or people of Hispanic origin in the United States, accounting for just over 19 percent of the total population. This number is projected to jump to 22 percent by 2028.

More than 37 million are Mexican or Mexican-American, which makes them the dominant Hispanic group in the country. Many others have emigrated from or can trace their roots to countries like Cuba, El Salvador, the Dominican Republic, Guatemala, Colombia, Honduras, Venezuela, as well as Puerto Rico. In the end, every country in Latin America is represented.

California, with 15.7 million Hispanics, is home to the greatest number. Texas isn’t too far behind with just over 12 million. In each of these states, Hispanics make up 40 percent of the population. And in Florida, where the Hispanic population of 6 million is the third-largest in the nation, they comprise 27 percent of residents.

Of course, there are other states with sizeable Hispanic populations, including New York, with 3.9 million, and Arizona, with 2.4 million. States like Illinois, New Jersey, Colorado, Georgia, and New Mexico (where Hispanics have been a majority since 2021) have at least 1 million.

And while many states—even North and South Dakota—have seen the percentage of Hispanic residents climb, California, Texas, and Florida have experienced a bigger boom in their Hispanic populations in recent years than any of the other states.

According to a 2023 Datassential survey, “45 percent of Gen Z consumers say they’d choose Latin food if they could only eat one cuisine for the rest of their lives.” ¿Qué? ¡Muy bueno!

Familial Ties

What does the number of Hispanics living in the United States have to do with the produce industry? Much more than most would think.

Hispanics, to a greater degree than many other ethnic groups, often live in generational households and tend to stick to familial or traditional shopping behaviors. If Abuelita and Mamá buy mangos or plantains or nopales at Fresco y Más or Northgate Market or Fiesta Mart, odds are good their children and grandchildren will too.

Wherever there are Hispanic neighborhoods or communities, there are shoppers looking for a taste of home. These days, however, they’re not all Hispanic. In fact, Hispanic foods once considered unusual or different have increasingly found their way to the shopping carts and dining tables of a wider American audience.

According to a 2023 Datassential survey, “45 percent of Gen Z consumers say they’d choose Latin food if they could only eat one cuisine for the rest of their lives.” ¿Qué? ¡Muy bueno!

As a result, retailers and restaurants—both traditional and Hispanic—have jumped on this trend by featuring Hispanic fresh produce more prominently in stores and on menus.

Chart-Topping Faves

The list of in-demand Hispanic fruits and vegetables is long and diverse, thanks to the different tastes and cultures throughout Latin America.

Some—mangos, squash, cilantro, chile peppers, avocados, pineapples, tomatoes, and others—are solidly in the mainstream. Others like jicama, guava, tomatillos, plantains, and mamey sapote are gaining recognition and traction. And some, like papayas, have a loyal fan base but haven’t yet broken into the top ranks.

According to Melissa Hartmann de Barros, director of communications at Fort Lauderdale, FL-based HLB Specialties, LLC BB #:270717, it’s only a matter of time.

“Papayas grow year-round and are a staple in the diet of Brazilians and Hispanics,” says Hartmann de Barros, whose father founded the company. “Many Hispanic families have grown up with papayas in their home countries. They’re one of the most nutrient-dense fruits.”

A grower, importer, and distributor of tropical fruits, HLB Specialties has been sourcing exotic and tropical fruits since 1989. Among its biggest sellers are the Brazilian golden papaya and the trademarked Samba papaya.

And while the majority of the company’s products are grown in Central and South America, not all are native to those regions. Some, like rambutan, lychee, and mangosteen, are native to Southeast Asia.

“Their seeds were brought to Honduras and Guatemala in the 1920s in an attempt to grow the crops, since the climate was very similar to their countries of origin,” points out Hartmann de Barros. “Thanks to their long-term vision, we can now import these niche exotics from places close by.”

Fruits like mangosteen and yellow dragon fruit may be too pricey for consumers in the countries where they’re grown, but they’ve amassed a devoted following abroad in places like the United States and Canada.

“There’s no doubt avocados have taken center stage, both at the retail level and at foodservice for traditional consumption and culinary exploration.”

Super Bowl stardom

When it comes to particularly big sellers in Hispanic fruit or vegetables, few have the enduring star power of avocados. Unlike many Hispanic products, avocados are also grown commercially in three U.S. states.

California, which primarily grows the Hass variety, accounted for the vast majority of the domestic crop in 2022, at just over 88 percent. Florida, which specializes in tropical avocados, contributed 11.5 percent, and Hawaii produced 0.2 percent.

Not surprisingly, however, the United States is a net importer of avocados, most of which come from Mexico. Indeed, Mexico is the number-one avocado grower in the world, accounting for about 30 percent of global production.

Mexican growers produced 2.9 million tons of the fruit in 2023, an increase of 4 percent from the previous year, and exported more than 1.5 million tons, or 48 percent of the country’s total avocado production. The remaining 52 percent went to the domestic market, as avocados are a popular ingredient in the national cuisine. In 2022, Mexicans consumed nearly 24 pounds of avocados per capita.

Despite avocados being considered a luxury item in Mexico due to their high price, demand continues to grow. In 2024, production is projected to increase to 3 million tons. Not surprisingly, Americans gobble up the lion’s share, about 81 percent, of Mexico’s avocado exports, representing more than 1 million tons valued at $2.5 billion in 2023.

Second was Canada, which consumes fewer of the fabled alligator pears but with no less gusto. In 2023, Canada imported more than 121,500 tons of fresh avocados valued at more than $242 million, up from 108,577 tons the previous year.

Like its southern neighbor, Canada relies on Mexico for a majority, about 95 percent, of its avocado imports. However, a growing number of Latin American countries from the Dominican Republic to Colombia to Peru have developed their own successful avocado production pipelines, to the benefit of many U.S. businesses.

One example is W.P. Produce Corp BB #:143203. The Miami, FL-based, family-owned company is a grower, packer, and distributor of tropical and exotic produce, including avocados grown in Florida and the Dominican Republic.

“There’s no doubt avocados have taken center stage, both at the retail level and at foodservice for traditional consumption and culinary exploration,” comments Desiree Pardo Morales, vice president and daughter of the company’s founder.

“While the Hass variety, which we also offer, is the most widely known, the larger, slower-to-oxidize Desbry tropical avocado is our core Hispanic commodity and gaining distribution nationally beyond the more traditional Hispanic demographic markets.”

Peppers for every palate

Chile peppers are another staple Hispanic product. There are more than 50,000 varieties of chile peppers, with the Asia-Pacific region claiming more than 70 percent of global consumption. The United States isn’t far behind, both in its love for and consumption of chile peppers.

Among the most popular are jalapeño, serrano, poblano, habanero, Anaheim, and chilaca, which are largely grown in dry, sunny Mexican states like Sinaloa, Chihuahua, Sonora, Zacatecas, and Jalisco.

Indeed, Mexico is the largest chile pepper supplier to the United States, accounting for 84 percent of imports. According to Mexico’s Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development (SAGARPA), the country is projected to export $1.4 billion in hot peppers in 2024, about 30 percent of total production.

The rest is earmarked for the domestic market, which indicates just how much Mexicans love chiles and rely on them as a staple ingredient in their cooking.

According to Victor Myers, vice president of Sunny Produce and Brokerage, LLC BB #:194278 in McAllen, TX, peppers are very popular right now, especially jalapeños and poblanos. The family-owned business imports and ships peppers, cilantro, and other produce grown mostly in the Mexican states of Puebla and Aguascalientes to retailers in the Midwest and Southeastern United States.

And, like other growers and shippers, production has been affected by unpredictable and extreme weather. “The past two years, there’s been a heap of supply issues with all three of our main products—jalapeños, poblanos, and cilantro,” mentions Myers, noting the potential for quality issues due to high heat.

Mesmerizing mangos

Mangos are another Hispanic favorite wrestling with climate change. This might not be obvious, given Mexico’s record production of 2.2 million tons of the fruit in 2023. But industry experts are saying drought could slash production by 40 percent in 2024, which would make it challenging to meet even national demand, let alone demand from abroad.

This, of course, is a significant problem since mangos are enjoying a huge boom in popularity, especially with U.S. consumers. Last year, Mexico accounted for 66 percent of U.S. mango imports, worth about $476 million. The next biggest suppliers were Peru, Brazil, and Ecuador.

According to W.P. Produce’s Pardo Morales, mangos may have been a perennial favorite in Latin America, but in recent years they have gone mainstream, with fans from China to California.

“With Florida being the top mango-producing U.S. state, we’re well positioned to meet customer demand for the popular fruit,” she says, noting the company’s Desbry Florida mango is tree-ripened and available year-round.

Tantalizing tomatoes

Thousands of years ago, the tomato plant grew wild in the Andes Mountains of South America. It managed to get through Central America to Mexico, where the indigenous people called it xictomatl. The Aztecs shortened it to tomatl and introduced it to the Spanish colonizers, who called it tomate. Today, we know it as the tomato.

With such a long history, it makes sense that the tomato is a principal ingredient in Hispanic cuisine. It’s also the most consumed vegetable (though botanically a fruit) in the world and second-most in the United States behind the potato, another native of the Andes.

The eighth-biggest tomato grower in the world, Mexico produces nearly 3.5 million tons per year in states like Sinaloa, Baja California Sur, San Luis Potosí, and Jalisco. After supplying the domestic market, the country exports to the global market.

Much of this annual production doesn’t make it beyond North America, as most shipments cross the U.S.-Mexico border and stay there.

Mexico is the number-one exporter of tomatoes to the United States, and according to Trade Data Monitor, in 2023 Mexico exported 2.2 million tons of tomatoes, valued at $3 billion, to its northern neighbor. Only then did Canada and Japan get their share.

As once-exotic fruits and vegetables have become more mainstream, shoppers from all over the cultural and economic map have broadened their palates.

Grocers Get the Nod

Perhaps one of the most important and interesting developments over the past few years is the proliferation and expansion of Hispanic supermarket chains within the United States. Not only have they catered to their core customers—Hispanics looking for their favorite ingredients they can’t find anywhere else—but they have also attracted a wider non-Hispanic audience.

As once-exotic fruits and vegetables have become more mainstream, shoppers from all over the cultural and economic map have broadened their palates. Naturally, this success has captured the attention of some of the biggest U.S. national chains.

In late 2023, for example, Cincinnati, OH-based Kroger Company BB #:100073 debuted a new Hispanic-inspired line of more than 50 products called Kroger Mercado.

Meanwhile, San Antonio, TX-based powerhouse H-E-B BB #:106490, which has traditionally stocked a robust offering of Hispanic produce, sauces, and spices, introduced the H-E-B Mi Tienda product line, also in late 2023.

Aside from national chains capitalizing on the popularity of Hispanic flavors, there are numerous Hispanic supermarket chains across the country. More than 40 percent are located in California and Texas.

Whether they’ve been absorbed by bigger companies or remain independent, these retailers were among the first to get the ball rolling by recognizing what their customers wanted and needed.

Based in Houston, TX, La Michoacana Meat Market is the biggest Hispanic supermarket chain in Texas, with around 140 stores across the Lone Star State and Oklahoma. The company was founded in 1986 by Rafael Ortega to cater to the growing Hispanic population and to introduce new products, foods, and flavors to Texans.

Fresco y Más was part of Southeastern Grocers until its sale to Fresco Retail Group in early 2024. The Coral Gables, FL-based chain of 28 supermarkets across south, central, and southwest Florida caters largely to Hispanic and Caribbean communities.

Grupo Comercial Chedraui, a Mexico-based food retailer, operates nearly 460 stores in Mexico. Through its U.S. subsidiary, Chedraui USA, Inc., it also operates more than 300 stores across California, Arizona, Texas, New Mexico, and Nevada under the El Super BB #:157908, Fiesta, and Smart & Final banners.

Hispanic-focused U.S. supermarkets include Houston, TX-based Fiesta Mart BB #:137650 with 63 stores and Paramount, CA-based El Super with 64 stores.

Heritage Grocers Group, headquartered in Ontario, CA, is another company that’s been busy acquiring Hispanic supermarket chains across several states with either large and established or fast-growing Hispanic populations.

“The beautiful thing about the Latino culture is its amalgamation of different origins, traditions, flavors, and ingredients.”

Among the jewels in its crown are Cárdenas Markets BB #:186000, based in Ontario, CA with 58 stores; Supermercado El Rancho, based in Addison, TX with 29 stores; and Los Altos Ranch Market, based in Phoenix, AZ with 7 stores.

Founded in Hialeah, FL in 1962 by the Guerra and Herrán families, Sedano’s Supermarkets BB #:198005 now boasts 35 stores across southern and central Florida. While they offer a variety of Hispanic foods, the stores are known for their wide selection of Cuban products.

In 1980, Mexican immigrant Miguel González opened his first supermarket in Anaheim, CA. Since then, Northgate González Market BB #:166959 has grown to become a much-beloved chain of 43 stores across Southern California.

In late 2023, the company debuted a new retail concept: Mercado González, in Costa Mesa, CA. The focus is specifically on Mexican culture and dining, with food stalls, fresh produce, herbs and spices, and even a restaurant.

A Panorama of Flavors

The most notable element of Hispanic or Latino cuisine is its sheer diversity. Thanks to Latin America’s multiethnic population, the foods differ not only between countries but also within them.

While there are some staples such as corn, beans, and rice common to most countries in the region, the variety of additional ingredients is vast.

From the Cuban medianoche (“midnight”) sandwich to arepas from Venezuela, Latino foods have grown in popularity and influenced the American palate with new fusions and interpretations.

Corn, potatoes, tomatoes, and cacao may be native to the Americas, but the Spanish and Portuguese explorers brought new foods like rice and spices like cinnamon and cloves which, over the centuries, have become integral to Hispanic cooking.

The influence of African and Indigenous peoples on the cuisine of places like Brazil, Cuba, and Puerto Rico is evident in vegetables like okra and collard greens as well as dishes like acarajé, fufú de plátano, and mofongo.

“In our culinary culture nationwide, consumers have the option for the most authentic ethnic food in Hispanic neighborhoods, or more of a Latin fusion or Hispanic-inspired experience at top local restaurants or chains,” observes Pardo Morales. “Don’t be surprised if your Caesar salad dressing has a hint of green from a tropical avocado.”

In Argentina, the flavor influences are European, and beef is king, while countries like Peru and Chile reflect their coastal culture in dishes like ceviche (fish). And don’t forget about the 3,000 different varieties of potato, a native Peruvian crop.

Tropical fruits like mango, papaya, guava, and passionfruit are featured in desserts, fresh juices, or eaten plain with a fork or spoon.

“The beautiful thing about the Latino culture is its amalgamation of different origins, traditions, flavors, and ingredients,” says HLB Specialties’ Hartmann de Barros.

“There’s a large West African influence, but also Lebanese, Spanish, Portuguese, even Chinese, and Brazil has the largest Japanese population outside Japan.”

But what does “Mexican food” mean? Is it chalupas or chiles en nogada? Mole or menudo? Tex-Mex or Cal-Mex?

Authentic Mexican

Among Hispanic restaurants, Mexican cuisine dominates. Think tacos, guacamole, chips and salsa, fajitas, enchiladas, chiles rellenos, migas, and more. According to Pew Research Center data, 11 percent of U.S. restaurants offer Mexican food, and 85 percent of counties have at least one Mexican restaurant.

And the counties that don’t have any Mexican restaurants comprise only 1 percent of the total population. In other words, the overwhelming majority of U.S. residents have access to a restaurant of some sort serving Mexican food.

California and Texas, the states with the biggest Mexican and Mexican-American populations, together claim 40 percent of all the Mexican restaurants in the country.

On a broader scale, Southwestern states claim a bigger piece of the Mexican restaurant pie: 22 percent of all restaurants in New Mexico are Mexican, 20 percent in Texas, 18 percent in Arizona, and 17 percent in California.

Nationally, 51 percent of all Mexican restaurants can be found in California, Texas, Florida, New York, and Illinois. When added up, it’s clear that Americans love Mexican food.

But what does “Mexican food” mean? Is it chalupas or chiles en nogada? Mole or menudo? Tex-Mex or Cal-Mex? Is it comfort food like quesadillas or queso fundido, or creative fusion like a Korean taco al pastor with pork belly and kimchi? So many questions and the answers depend on whom you ask.

There are, of course, some things everyone can agree on. Common spices and ingredients used in Mexican cuisine include garlic, onion, chile, cinnamon, cumin, Mexican oregano, tomato, and achiote.

According to Myers of Sunny Produce, authentic Mexican food is defined according to the region. Different areas are known for various foods, such as mole from Oaxaca, sopa de lima from Yucatán, or birria from Jalisco.

But there are foods all Mexicans have in common, and that’s how Myers and others judge a restaurant’s authenticity.

“Most of us will judge a restaurant by the tortillas they serve. For me, it can make or break whether or not I return to a restaurant,” he says. “When the tortillas come out, they have to be legit.

“And the salsas have to be good and fresh—what kind do they have—spicy, sweet? What effort do they put into these things that brings the whole meal together? Those are the questions I ask,” he adds.

As for main dishes, Myers likes to see some of the staples on the menu, like chiles relleno (stuffed peppers), a mole dish, enchiladas, a fish dish, and a good menudo (tripe soup). Nothing too over-the-top, just good, real food.

“The few times I’ve been to fancy Mexican places, I’ve been disappointed,” he admits. “They’re too way-out-there, so it’s not really Mexican food. The mom-and-pop places get it right more often. I want what I’m going to eat if I go to my grandma’s house, and I want them to make it better than I can.”

The Price Is Right

Nearly 40 percent of Hispanics in the United States claim an origin other than Mexican or Mexican-American, so it stands to reason there are restaurants within the country serving other Hispanic cuisines.

According to Pew Research Center data, a mere 2 percent of Hispanic eateries offer non-Mexican menus. But the variety of cuisine is enough to make anyone’s mouth water: Cuban, Peruvian, Caribbean, Brazilian, Colombian, Dominican, and Salvadoran, to name a few.

In general, Mexican food wins high marks for its affordability, and there’s a vast array of choices. Fast food favorites include Qdoba, El Pollo Loco, Taco Cabana, and the ubiquitous Taco Bell. On the fast casual spectrum, there are popular chains both large and small, like Torchy’s Tacos, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Chipotle, and Baja Fresh Mexican Grill, among others.

And yes, there are high-end Mexican restaurants that either specialize in the cuisine of a region or experiment with fusion. One of the most elegant and pioneering restaurants, Topolobampo in Chicago, was the idea of chef Rick Bayless, who is famous for his celebration of Mexican cuisine.

He followed this eatery with the more casual and affordable Frontera Grill. Since then, “designer Mexican” has been popping up everywhere.

Some of the well-regarded restaurants include El Naranjo in Austin, TX, whose chef and owner Iliana de la Vega specializes in Oaxacan flavors, and Xochi in Houston, TX, where chef Hugo Ortega also celebrates Oaxacan-inspired cuisine.

Then there’s Cosme in New York City, which promotes Mexican flavors without the usual, predictable dishes, and Bacanora in Phoenix, AZ, which has been touted for offering dishes from Sonora.

El Fenix is famous not only for certain dishes and recipes, but also for being credited as the country’s first Mexican chain and the restaurant that introduced Tex-Mex to the nation.

Fondas: A Three-Course Tradition

And then there’s the old-fashioned fonda. These are small mom-and-pop joints with just a few tables—simple restaurants that serve breakfast, snacks, or a basic three-course lunch. Mexico is full of fondas, as they’re inexpensive and popular with those looking for a quick but tasty lunch.

There are small Mexican eateries scattered throughout the United States, and some come close to resembling an authentic fonda. Yet one restaurant in particular holds a unique spot in the history of Mexican joints: El Fenix in Dallas, TX.

El Fenix is famous not only for certain dishes and recipes, but also for being credited as the country’s first Mexican chain and the restaurant that introduced Tex-Mex to the nation.

El Fenix was founded by Miguel Martínez in 1918. An immigrant from Mexico, he was working as a dishwasher at the Oriental Hotel in downtown Dallas when he opened a cafe in the front room of his house.

The business didn’t find its footing until he moved into a dedicated space, renamed it El Fenix, and introduced a traditional inexpensive lunch deal with two enchiladas, rice, and beans—similar to the fonda concept and menu.

Since then, El Fenix has grown to 22 locations and become a beloved brand. In 2008, the Martínez family sold the chain to a Dallas-based restaurant group, which kept most of the original recipes—because that’s what the customers wanted.

This article was originally published in the September/October 2024 edition.